I have been totally busy at work lately and with my sewing class, so haven't had a chance to blog much. Typepad has eaten my post like three times so far also, just to add to the fun.
Here's the update of what I've been working on:
Knitting:
Here's my progress on the Cabo Hoodie. It looks like the armholes are really small compared to the body of the sweater, but they're not really. It's just a long sweatshirt style sweater. Also, I should have alternated skeins of Malabrigo every few rows, because the second skein has more white in it. But I still think it's cute. I have to do the sleeves and the hood, then I'm DONE.

Drive-Thru - done with the body up to the armholes and the first sleeve. I have about 2/3 of the second sleeve to do, then I get to do the fun multicolored yoke part. Then I'm DONE. (Can you tell I'm ready to be DONE with Christmas gift knitting?)

On Bounce, I have about 5" done but don't have a picture. It's my work "webcast knitting" project.
Sewing:
I had tons of sewing drama going on over the past few days. I can't even describe how many different issues I had to deal with on my skirt, but basically it culminated in me making another skirt, and bringing in both skirts to class last night, with the feeling that if neither were fixable, I would just start another one. My teacher was very very helpful (and I needn't have worried or worked myself up into such a frenzy, as everyone was having skirt issues and she had planned on "problem resolution" that night) and I learned a lot. As she says, it was better that I learned how to fix these problems rather than (my words) giving in to my perfectionist tendencies, throwing out the existing skirts and restarting another skirt thinking "this time it'll be perfect."
So here is what I've learned:
1. If you have a piece that needs to be eased into another one, like a waistband or facing to the body of a skirt, first line up the side seams and edges, then pin each side from the seam to the edge using the pins horizontally instead of vertically. This trick really works. I had resewn my waistband twice and hadn't been able to get it lined up, but when I tried this suggestion from the teacher, it worked great. Also, don't blame yourself automatically if things don't line up perfectly - it could be a case of "bad patterning" according to my teacher. I never thought about it before, but I guess there are knitting pattern errata or poor drafting issues all the time; why wouldn't the same thing happen with commercial sewing patterns? This made me feel better, because all the way along I was pretty precise about everything and couldn't understand why it didn't match up perfectly.
2. Read the pattern instructions and ignore them if it says to sew the zipper in first, then put the waistband on (again, see "bad patterning.") It makes more sense to put the waistband on the skirt first, then line up the top of the waistband with the top of the zipper, so that the zipper goes to the top of the skirt.
BTW, in case you're wondering about the source of this "bad patterning", it was this innocuous looking New Look pattern #6758 (one of their new ones.) It looks nice and easy, doesn't it? Mmm, not so much, at least not if you follow the directions as written. The good news is that now that I know what to do, I could knock out one of these in every color under the rainbow in an hour each. I am working on the shorter A-line version shown in a blue print at the bottom.

3. Don't follow the pattern instructions for inserting a lapped zipper. Do not baste the zipper insertion area closed. Do not press the seam allowance back 5/8" on one side of the zipper insertion area, and 1/2" on the other. This is asking for a crooked zipper. Do the zippers like this instead:
Lapped Zipper Installation Steps:
1. Sew the back or side seam where the zipper will be inserted, leaving the zipper insertion area open. Do NOT baste the zipper insertion area closed. Note – side zippers for women’s garments are always placed on the left side. You should be able to flatten the lapped portion of the zipper over it when running your hand from the front to the back of the side seam (so the lapped portion that covers the zipper should be on the left side.)
2. Press open the seam, including 5/8” on each side of the zipper insertion area. Do NOT follow pattern instructions that say to press one side 5/8” and the other side 1/2" as this can cause the zipper to be off balance.
3. Open zipper. Pin the right hand side of the zipper tape (the side of the zipper that will be covered up by the lapped fabric) to the seam allowance ONLY (not the skirt itself.) Using the zipper foot, sew together with an anchoring stitch 1/8” from the edge. This anchoring stitch should just be a regular stitch (not basted) with normal 2.5 length and 0 width.
4. On that same side of the zipper, now pin through the seam allowance and the skirt itself and seam again.
5. Repeat step #3 on the other side of the zipper.
6. Fold over the fabric to lap over the other side of the zipper and pin. The zipper fold should be lined up with and disappear into the rest of the seam. Seam from the top (waist) to the bottom on the right side of the fabric, through all thicknesses (like #4, except on the other side, and with the folded fabric to lap over), and pivot across at the bottom. End seam at fold (do not go over the other right hand side of the zipper again.)
7. Pour yourself your favorite beverage. DONE!
I will be taking pictures of each step of this process soon, as I want to insert zippers in everything now that I know how to do it.
So I'm very glad I didn't give up on my class or on sewing, just because of some challenges along the way. Thanks so much to Adrienne and Jim for listening to my drama yesterday and talking me down from the ledge, and to Jim for coming to my sewing class last night to bring my forgotten power cord and pedal for my machine.