Revised Simplicity 3775 TNT

For a while now (probably two years) I've been making and remaking my "TNT" (tried-n-true) pattern of Simplicity 3775 in various versions. V-neck, round neck, short sleeve, 3/4 sleeve. But I never was able to get it to be wearable without the need for a cami underneath because the neckline was just too low for me, and the empire seam hit me too low on my torso instead of just under the bust. It was very wearable that way, with a cami, but not spot on perfect. Then I tried making it in a size down allover, which was a little better in the shoulders/bust/neckline (still not un-cami-able though - new word) but a little too tight everywhere else.

This was because I really wear a pattern size 12 (like a 6-8 in RTW) in almost all patterns, not a 10 (more like a 4-6). However, all of my petite-ness is from my shoulder to my bust, not anywhere else - about 1.5" shorter than standard, which is a lot when you're making pattern adjustments. My underarm to waist is standard length, or maybe a smidge - 1/4"-1/2" - shorter than standard. What I've been experimenting with lately (to great success) is cutting an extremely small size (6 in pattern sizes, so I don't know, maybe a 0 in RTW?) in the shoulders, neck, neck facings and the cap of the sleeve, then a pattern size 12 everywhere else.

Here is one of the results of my experimentation:

To make the changes, I re-bought this pattern in the 4-12 pattern size range so I could start from scratch. Previously I had shortened the midriff piece, but that wasn't really accomplishing the objective so I actually left that at standard length on this go-round. Just cut the 6 at the shoulders, neck/facings and cap sleeve and 12 everywhere else. This one is on the long side, because I didn't shorten the skirt piece and just hemmed it on the coverstitch machine as is, with a 1/2" hem. I have since shortened the skirt pattern piece by 2" and made another one and it was just perfect in length.

I'm trying to keep these posts relatively short so that I don't burn out, and keep the process manageable, but I have one more thing to share today. I love the new Lucky "Sofia Boot" jeans in the super-stretch fabric. They really aren't that "boot" in the leg, still pretty narrow, and they are cut just right - a little higher in the back so you don't give unwitting shows to onlookers when bending over. Super super comfortable, but fitted at the same time because of the super-stretch fabric. Sweet-n-Low/Sweet-n-Straights used to be my favorite of their jean styles, but these have taken the prize. I just bought two pairs of them, and a pair of their Tomboy style as I liked their straight fit.

Comments

[Tina W.]

It looks perfect! Brava!!

[Rosie]

It's great to see you again! The dress fits you perfectly! Sorry I missed you ladies this time around (I was out of the country). I love the fabric you got ... makes me want to go visit Kashi :-).

[betty]

it looks like a great fit! When I use patterns, I tend to cut to a 10 on the shoulders, a 12 for the bust line and waist and then almost down to an 8 for the hips and below.

[sheila]

That is definitely a cami-free dress, it looks great on you. BTW I have that fabric and love the print I made a knit sheath dress with it.

[CGCouture]

I really like how this dress turned out. I think I even have this pattern in my stash (6 made easy, or something, right?). It looks like you have the torso fitted perfectly now. :-) And it doesn't look like you need a cami anymore. :-)

[adrienne]

Great job!

[rebeccawip]

great revisions and mods to your tnt!

[Mandy]

The dress really work now. Well done on trying so hard to get the fit right and describing your process to us. It really helps.

[Amanda]

The dress looks fabulous! You are really doing well with adjusting sewing patterns to fit you. Great Job.